Peru 2011 – The Sacred Valley & Ollantaytambo

We were getting closer to the part of the trip that I was most looking forward to, but at the same time was dreading the most, and that was the Inca Trail hike to Machu Picchu. The preceding day was spent touring the Sacred Valley and making ourselves comfortable in the small town of Ollantaytambo.

As mentioned previously, I was on a trip with G Adventures, a Canadian adventure travel company who are committed to providing sustainable tourism to such an extent that they  created a separate organisation called Planeterra. To quote their website, ‘Planeterra is a non-profit organization dedicated to the development and support of small communities around the globe’.

Caccaccollo

To that end, our journey took us on a trip to one of their local projects, a woman’s weaving project in the mountains at a very small place called Caccaccollo. It’s always difficult to work out how much of what you are seeing is reality and what is being presented for the tourists, but everyone was very friendly, there was no great pressure being exerted to purchase any of their woven goods (though of course, we all did) and it was actually interesting to see how they used all the natural materials at their disposal to produce such lovely items.

Pisac

Another drive followed as we made our way to the town of Pisac where we would be getting up-close and personal for the first time with Inca ruins. It was also about to provide me, and the guides, with an early indication as to our group’s ability to walk up sharp ascents and descents. Let’s just say that as it was the day before the hike proper, I didn’t want to exert myself too much, too soon!

Ollantaytambo Ruins - Walls

We eventually made our way down the Urubamba river valley to the town of Ollantaytambo, where we had further climbing to do as we ascended to the head of the valley and had a fantastic view of the town itself. At one point I was looking down almost vertically at a local football game from a height of about 100m. Here, we were able to get right up to some of the walls that had been created by the Inca and it was only by being this close that you could really appreciate the craftmanship that had gone into their work. Without using any mortar or cement the stones have been placed in perfect lines, in order to prevent them being destroyed by the frequent earthquakes that occur around here.

Ollantaytambo - Girl

We checked into our hotel, where the lovely assistant to your left here helped make sure we were all very comfortable, and we spent a pleasant evening at a local restaurant where thoughts turned to what lay before us tomorrow. The Inca Trail was now very, very close and I, for one, was getting very, very nervous!

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Peru 2011 – Where Cusco Takes My Breath Away

Lima to Cusco Ticket

Sitting on an internal flight from Lima to Cusco, I got to thinking about the warnings a friend of mine had given me before I left the UK about possible difficulties I might have with the altitude, how to recognise any potential problems and what to do about them.

I then promptly drifted off into a snooze and forgot all about them.

Cusco. The real start of my adventure.

At over 11,000ft, Cusco is certainly higher than anywhere I’d ever been been before but I had no real idea what being at such an elevation meant, physiologically. I was about to find out. The plane stopped a few hundred metres from the terminal so it was necessary to disembark on the runway and walk the rest of the way. As I stood at the exit to the plane I took one last deep breath of recycled oxygen, courtesy of LAN Airlines, and headed down the steps to the tarmac.

I didn’t know what to expect, but I expected…something? As I started walking I wondered what all the fuss was about as I wasn’t having any difficulty at all. 200m later as I got to the terminal, I thought I was going to pass out as I started feeling dizzy and my breathing became shallower and forced. Fortunately, this passed quite quickly but I realised I had to take it easy for a few hours until my body had gotten used to my new surroundings.

Mate de Coca

Once checked into the hotel it was suggested I try the local remedy for altitude problems and so I had my first taste of mate de coca, a green tea made with leaves of the coca plant. Yes, the same plant used to produce cocaine. Very nice it was, too. Don’t know whether it worked for me but it was worth a try, just don’t try it at home. We shall return to this topic a little later!

We were given a guided walk to help familiarise ourselves with this bustling city but it didn’t take long to work out the most central areas and where various shops and bars were located. The Spanish colonial influence in the architecture and layout of the city were obvious but this was distinctly South American in flavour. I have to be honest and say that the street vendors & beggars took a little getting used to, particularly in their use of children to tug at the heartstrings of tourists in order to get them to part with their nuevos soles, but that is only a small gripe in what I found to be a fascinating place. I only wish I could have had more time in the city itself in order to fully explore the place.

Cusco was to be my base for only one night, as the next day I was headed into the Sacred Valley of the Incas.

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PhotoBlog – An Occasional Series – #2

Winter in Verulamium Park, St Albans

Winter in Verulamium Park, St Albans

Clock Tower, St Albans

Clock Tower, St Albans

Verulamium Park, St Albans

Verulamium Park, St Albans

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Peru 2011 – Mi llegada a Perú & Other Furry Animals

Nuevos Soles

A combination of nerves and excitement were playing a game in my stomach, each vying for supremacy as I made an early morning departure from London City Airport for a short hop to Schipol airport in Amsterdam for my KLM flight to Lima, Peru. The adventure had begun.

A brief stop at Schipol was followed by an uneventful, but very pleasant, 11-hour flight that touched down in the late afternoon and I took my first ever steps on the South American continent. Anyone that’s ever arrived at an unfamiliar airport, in an unfamiliar place, will tell you that there’s a certain feeling of disorientation at first but fortunately I’d pre-booked a transfer to the hotel so once the bags had been collected it was time to meet my driver and on to the hotel. The driver asking me to keep the window closed as we drove through downtown Lima didn’t worry me unduly!

Miraflores, Peru

Based in the suburb of Miraflores, my tour with G Adventures wasn’t officially due to start until a meet-and-greet at the hotel the next evening so after checking in and taking a stroll around the area, which included my first ever glimpse of the Pacific Ocean, I spent a couple of hours in a local bar trying to identify the various international languages I could hear around me. It’s also where I had my first taste of what is considered the national drink and the source of major disputes between Peru & Chile as to its origin, the Pisco Sour, and a local delicacy that I don’t believe is on the menu at many other international locations…Guinea Pig. All I’ll say about that is I won’t be rushing to have it again but I’m glad I gave it a try. Same goes for the Guinea Pig!

I woke pretty early next morning and whilst pottering ’round the hotel room I turned the TV on to see what Peruvian breakfast TV was like, only to be greeted with blanket coverage of Kate & William’s wedding back home in London…one of the reasons I’d chosen these dates for my trip was to avoid it!

The day was spent investigating the area, walking down to the Pacific, watching para gliders use the thermals created by the cliffs to launch themselves off high-rise buildings before floating over the ocean and coming into land on the beach. Quite honestly, I was just enjoying the change of scenery and the chance to chill out for a while before the more physical aspect of my trip commenced. Eventually, I had to get back to the hotel as it was time to meet some of my fellow travellers and once introductions had taken place and details of our itinerary had been confirmed, we adjourned to a local restaurant for a chance to get to know each other a little more.

It wasn’t a late night as the next day was to see the start of my adventure proper, where I would get to see the Peru I was expecting to see…

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PhotoBlog – An Occasional Series – #1

Copenhagen at Dusk

Copenhagen, Denmark at Dusk

Watergate Bay, Cornwall

Watergate Bay, Cornwall at Dusk

Royal Festival Hall & London Eye

Royal Festival Hall & London Eye at Night

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Peru 2011 – An introduction

Before turning my attention to adventures new, let me look into the past for one final time and bring you a small taste of the trip that has had the most profound effect on my life…so far, anyway!

Back in 2010 my mind kept wandering forward to my 50th birthday in 2011 and I don’t mind admitting it was an occasion that I really wasn’t looking forward to, to which anyone that knows me will attest. It was during this period of reflection that I decided to do something different for such a special birthday and so, after a considerable period of investigation and research, I decided this was the perfect moment to visit the one place I’d always wanted to see…Machu Picchu in Peru. What follows is an account of that trip, split into a number of different posts, pre and post-Inca Trail.

'Baggage allowances are dreadful these days, aren't they?'...said Paddington

‘Baggage allowances are dreadful these days, aren’t they?’…said Paddington

As this was the first big adventure I had ever really done I felt it was important to have the assistance of a reputable travel company that could help a newbie with nerves such as mine, but then if a little bear could make the trip in the opposite direction on his own, what did a big, tough guy (okay, big) like me have to worry about?.

It was also important to me that the company I chose had a policy of sustainable tourism incorporated throughout their entire organisation and my research led me to a Canadian company, G Adventures, and I’m pleased to say that my choice was a great one.

I didn’t have a great amount of free time available to make this a lengthy trip so I decided to concentrate almost exclusively on the purpose of my visit, Machu Picchu. The trip I booked was this one called the Inca Discovery Plus which would give me exactly what I needed in the time I had available. Once booked and deposit paid, all I had to do was wait. For 12 months!

I still had to book a return flight, as they aren’t included in G’s trips, but the decision had been made and I was ready to go.

Roll on 2011!!!

…to be continued, Dear Reader.

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Sweden – The Arctic Circle and Ice Hotel – 2010

I’m going to be talking about some exciting news soon regarding my next big adventure that’s coming up in June and July, but before concentrating on the future I need to update the blog with adventures past and to that end here’s a few words regarding a great trip I had to Sweden in March 2010.

The company I was working for at the time was celebrating its 10th birthday and they kindly decided to take all of their staff (about 20 of us) on a trip overseas for a long weekend. We were given few details prior to departure, apart from advising us to wrap up warm, so we headed off on a very early morning flight to Stockholm that was immediately followed by a connecting flight into the Arctic Circle itself and a place called Kiruna. From there, we boarded a bus for the short journey to the place that was to be our first night’s stay…the world famous, and original, Ice Hotel.

Ice Hotel - Lobby

I think it would be fair to say that out of our group, some of us enjoyed the overnight experience of sleeping on a bed made of ice and coping with a room temperature at a constant -5 degrees Celsius a little more than others! Personally, I got about 5 hours sleep and only woke up a couple of times when my arms came outside my Arctic sleeping bag and promptly froze in minutes. Overall it was a great experience but I can’t deny I wasn’t unhappy with it only being for one night!

Ice Hotel - Room

After decamping to our more conventional accommodation and completing our business conference we were advised as to the rest of our itinerary, which was to include dog-sledding and a night-time trip out onto a frozen lake on snowmobiles with the hope of seeing the Aurora Borealis, the Northern Lights.

Keeping things brief, the dog-sledding was great fun, the dogs themselves were very well-trained and really seemed to enjoy their work and I would have loved to have had the opportunity of actually driving a sled, but that wasn’t to be.

The night-trip on the snowmobiles was sensational, involving as it did us taking turns to drive through the woods and onto the frozen lake, which eventually lead us to a small, wooden hut where we were provided with the most delicious local reindeer stew and warming drinks.

The intention was to be out on the ice in order to see the Aurora but unfortunately, climactic conditions were such that we never got to see them, something I hope to put right at some point in my future adventures.

If you ever want to take a short break and do something different, give the Ice Hotel a try as it will be an experience you won’t forget in a hurry!

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